Inspired by a tilt-shift adapters like Cambo X2 -PRO and Cambo Ultima 35 Kit with desire to have ability to use virtually any medium/large format lens but not willing to spend almost $2000 for a ready to use system, I decided to build my own version of such device. At the end I was hoping to have much heavier, but more adjustable camera system for much less money.
So, I start looking for a non-expensive used large format 4×5 view camera with full geared movements ( Sinar went off from my list at this point, as it is usually too old or too expensive :-)). Eventually I ended up by choosing between Horseman and Cambo , and Cambo won. I am not saying that a Horseman is not as good (it might be better, I never had one), but there was a good deal on a Cambo that time.
I’ve got Cambo Master PC 4×5 view camera in a great shape, few lens boards (including one recessed) , found an old tripod head and about 3-4 hours total to build this:
Tilt Shift system for 35mm digital camera for medium format lens mount
Tilt/Shift camera system for 35mm cameras with medium/large format lens mount
I have modified one frame, attaching the camera plate from a head the way shown on a photo (screw mount reinforced with epoxy glue). Now I can move camera any direction to cover larger sensor field of view, stitching images in one afterward.
Let me explain: Any medium format lens has not less than 60×60 millimeters field of view (usually more), but 35mm full frame has only 35×24 millimeters. So, by moving 35mm camera from side to side while making photos on each position we can cover full 6×6 frame, if needed. The resolution will be enormous as well!
Having camera mounted vertically, I would stick with side to side movements, which will be good for exterior/interior or landscape shoots, producing up to 44 Megapixel photos with up to 48×35 mm field of view with 2 exposures, and 74×35 (66 megapixel) for 3. I would think it will be more than enough for my applications. In most cases this will be too much, so I’ll be making just one photo accepting a crop factor. Here is how I’ve attached the lens, just as a temporary solution:
Tilt/shit camera system for 35 mm digital camera, side view
Now, the lens. I do not have experience with medium format equipment, so any advice would be appreciated. I need one macro lens for a studio product/food photography and one wide angle for a architecture. Any suggestions? For now I am planning to buy and use Mamiya Macro C 80mm f4 N lens for the product photography, have not found a wide angle (35mm Mamiya?) so far.
Tilt Shift system for 35mm digital camera with medum format lens attached, front view
Bellows:
Took apart my old broken sigma 17-35mm lens (if I am not mistaken), and used a lens bayonet and corresponded part to fix bellows.
Canon lens mount attached on a cambo bellows
Canon lens mount attached on a cambo bellows
I’ve got old Bronica 150mm f3.5 lens to play with, did a several test shoots (will post them later) with it attached to a recessed Lens board.
The resolution was noticeably lower comparing to Canon 180mm f3.5 macro L lens, but considering 1.8 crop factor (35×24 v.s 60×40) it’s not bad at all. One thing I have noticed is a huge difference in the amount of light coming through Bronica lens. With the same lightning setup, same aperture number I would need to lower strobe output almost twice to match the exposure I had with 180mm Canon lens.
Here is the complete list of what I have used to build my camera:
1. Cambo master PC 4×5 view camera
2. Lens board for Cambo 4×5
3. Amvona ball head plate (can be used any other, just make sure it will fit)
4. Cambo bag Bellows.
5. Any canon EOS bayonet mount from lens, I was using my very old broken Sigma lens.
I plan to work on some improvements on this setup, will be posting updates soon. Stay tuned!
An update: I did not like the vertical camera mount, so I’ve changed it to be horizontal. Also, new Rodenstock lens is mounted:
View camera with Canon ESO attached, Rodenstock lens
There are few more views of this camera during the real work in a studio:
tilt shift for DSLR in studio photography
tilt shift for 35mm DSLR in studio photography
Full article about this particular shot: Tabletop photography tips and tricks: a good use of a tilt-shift adapter for DSLR
Updates and related articles:
October 8th, 2009 | 
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I guess I am lucky to have a Sinar system from the good old days :-) Has everything already with it to do the same exact setup and more with the Nikon system. I am loving it, using all different types of Nikon and View camera lenses. Thanks for showing the DIY build.
Eugene
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Thankfully I still have a couple of monorails from days gone by, although theys days I don’t seem to get asked much for that sort of work. However should the need arrise I too could link up to my Nikon.
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I am going to use this setup for a studio (macro and not) photography, where I may need a shift a lens to rotate a focus pane. As I expected, choosing a lens for this setup was not an easy task. Thanks for John Jovic post, I know what type of lens I’ll need here. Will post first test shoots soon, I hope. Really busy these days.
Alex Kolsokov
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So are you able to focus out to infinity with this? such a large distance betweeen lens and ccd plane I would think it would be tough.
Rick
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Rick,
It should be no problem to have infinite focus from 300mm to 50mm, as I can get as close as 50mm to a CCD by using a recessed lensboard, and I also has another bellows which can be extended to up to 300mm.
However, I am not going to use such long lenses anyway. Crop factor (comparing to a large or meduim format) makes any lent quite “long” in this setup.
Still waiting for my
RODENSTOCK APO-RODAGON-N 80mm (Enlarging Lens) to come. This lens I’ll be using to a studio macro, as I’ve seen a great results with it on the same setup.
Alex kolsokov
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Luca Reply:
November 28th, 2010 at 9:46 am
Hi Alex, I like your work! I’m working on this project http://www.flickr.com/photos/luca-aka-zicco/sets/72157625377080206/ for canon, based on old pentax hack article. But unfortunately I can focus to infinite. So one question, with your sistem you can focus to infinite ? I’, a chef and I need for takepicture of my food dishes. Thanks for your answer. adn sorry for my bad english, I write from Italy
Luca aKa CapZicco
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
November 28th, 2010 at 12:44 pm
Luca,
Yes, with my system i can focus to infinite. Everything depends on a lens focal length: to get infinite focus, you should have a distance between lens and camera censor to match lens focal length. For my rodenstock it is 80mm, so bellows should allow me to position the front standart 80mm far from a camera sensor to get infinite focus.
I’ve looked at you link, and this system may work fine for medium zoom lenses (based on the bellows size). However, you can’t really use standard 35mm lens with such bellows for tilt-shift: image circle won;t be enough to allow you to do any tilt or shift. You can use medium format, large format or enlargement lenses with it.
Good luck with your project!
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
November 28th, 2010 at 4:10 pm
Forgot to add: that rule for a focal length and the distance from a sensor is only for enlargement lens, like my Rodenstock. For lenses made for the camera.. it suppose to be always the same, specified by the camera system lens came from, unless you want to go to macro on non-macro lens.
Luca Reply:
March 18th, 2011 at 5:29 pm
Sorry for long delay to reply, but I have a big thief of almost all my camera and lens http://www.flickr.com/photos/luca-aka-zicco/5173320134/in/set-72157625377080206/
Only the bellows, 1 350d the 1dIII, and 3 lens 17-40, 70-200 and 35-350 remain.
After time passed with no photo Ii restart.. my son give to me e brand new rodenstock 80mm f4 (I think is like your) You mean I have to measure exactly 80mm from to front or the rear of rodenstock to the sensor of my Canon 1dIII ?
Right ? thanks again for help
Alex Koloskov Reply:
March 18th, 2011 at 11:14 pm
Luca,
Sorry to hear about the thief. I believe to get infinite focus you have to have 80mm to a sensor. Closer focus will need more distance from the lens to a sensor. However, I’ve never measured what distance I had. Why don’t you mount lens (fix it temporary) on the bellows and see what you’ll get when connected to a camera.
let me know how it works..
Luca Reply:
March 18th, 2011 at 5:44 pm
Sorry for delat to reply. but a thief of almosta ll my canon bodyes and lens http://www.flickr.com/photos/luca-aka-zicco/5173320134/in/set-72157625377080206/ .stop me for a while.
I save only 1 350d , 1 1dIII, the 17-40, the 70-200, the 35-350 and the bellow
Few days ago my son make me a present, a brand new Rodagon f5,6-80mm (similar to your apo :_)) )
So I restart with bellow and reading your reply. MAYBE i can focus to infinite measuring 8cm from lens to sensor of my 1dIII. But 8cm from bottom of the lens or the connector on the bellow ?
I apreciate your help. thanks
Luca
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Thanks for sharing this elegant inexpensive alternative to the super expensive Canon tilt/shift lens.
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I am builing a similiar camera. In your experience, do you prefer enlarging lenses or 4 x 5 lenses?
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admin Reply:
December 6th, 2009 at 2:59 am
Bill,
I did not had much experience with Medium format lens on my system, one I’ve tried was not doing really well. Enlarging lens was much better! But you need to get a good one, made for a color (Like APO lenses).
However, may be you find a good medium format work for you, something like Mamiya 80mm Macro.
Good luck with your project!
Alex
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I am wondering wether it is possible to build a system with my hasselblad system, my 5d-mark2 and a cambo master and shoot at 1/500 with a profoto acute2?
It would be great!
Thanks for the info!
C
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admin Reply:
January 25th, 2010 at 4:54 am
Christian, unfortunately, not. You will be able to shoot only with 1/600 with your setup!
BTW, links on comments is non-follow (for Google and other SE), so better to leave more intelligent comments to be followed by readers.
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Pardon my ignorance, but where did you get the bellows with correct fitting both for your camera at one end and the ? Square large format at the other? thanks for the great idea…
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admin Reply:
February 18th, 2010 at 8:11 pm
I’ve used standard bag bellows from cambo, and made one end to connect to a canon’s lens speeding.
There is a topic I’ve opened will help you, I have images of the modified bellows there:
topic
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Nice job. I’m looking for a similar setup (looking at the Cambo X2-PRO option).
By the way, Mamiya’s 140 mm macro is an excellent and versatile lens. I highly recommend it.
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
April 14th, 2010 at 7:56 am
Thank you, Oliver.
Cambo X2 Pro is a great adapter, if you plan to work with 35mm DSLR. For me it was not an option, as I am going to move to a medium format DSLR soon, and will be using tilt-shift adapter designed for such cameras.
Good to know about Mamiya 140mm lens, thanks!
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Nice job Alex!
You discovered my trick of 20 years ago!
Only back then I used a Nikon FM rear mounted to a Sinar P2 4X5 and interestingly, I used an Apo Rodagon ENLARGING lens mounted backwards in the front lens plate. Same results of course but even sharper than APO large format primes.
Film did not result in increased chromatic aberration as you get with digital sensors.
I miss my Sinar :(
Keep up the good work!
Mahmoud
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
May 3rd, 2010 at 10:42 pm
Mahmoud,
Thank you for the advice, will try to mount it backwards. Did not think about doing this.
That GearNinjia, is it all your work? You must have some good piece of experience, 20 years ago I was a kid:-)
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Oops! I see an enlarging lens in the past frame. Now mount it backwards!
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Hi, I love your site I was looking for more info about jewelry photography, usually shank is always out of focus, a big problem.
Check my site if you need some jewelry retouching
Jackson
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Hi Alex,
This is quite brilliant and very well done. Before I purchase the parts and attempt this myself I just want to clear up 1 question that I have. With this set up can the DSLR function much like a larger view camera in the field for capturing architecture with all around tight focus or will it function more like a very large lensbaby and leave me with just selective focus even when stopped down to f/11 or so?
Michael
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
August 21st, 2010 at 11:31 am
Michael,
My setup, like any other tilt-shift adapter, does not increase DOF. Instead, you can shift it to correct perspective distortion, or tilt to make focus plane tilted the way you want. Tilted to an extreme angle it will give you that selective focus you’ve mentioned.
Also, when you use enlargement lens, (or any other which has huge image circle) you can move camera on the rails to make several images to be stitched later. The resulted image will have almost distortion (large-format like) perspective, plus, a huge 6-+ Mpx resolution.
However, the whole thing is very heavy and not easy to use outside studio. I’ve never used it for architecture so far, the main purpose of it in a studio, for jewelry and other tricky objects:-)
Thanks for stopping by, wish you good luck in your projects!
~Alex
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Hi Alex, thanks for the article. I have a Fuji S5 pro that is no longer being used and will convert it to T/S use as per your example. You mention that you also use focus stacking when needed. Can you tell me what software you use for this? I have used CombineZP to experiment with, but it cannot stack large images.
Thanks for your brilliant web site and for sharing your expertize.
Le Roux
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
October 3rd, 2010 at 10:38 am
Le,
I use Photoshop to stack the images. There is not complicated technique for this, I am going to create a short video tutorial how-to in a week.
Wish you god luck with you project. Did you already get larger format camera?
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Hi Alex, thanks for the reply. I have tried a Hasselblad H3BII-39 for a few days but have decided to go with the Nikon D3x. the nikon is much more user friendly and has more than enough resolution for what I do. I have found that the Hasselblag seems to have a small dynamic range when compared to the Nikon which forced me to do some DHR shooting to get a good image which took a lot of time in PP. I am now using Helicon Focus for focus stacking and have found it to be quite good. It saves a lot of time over using the PS. I am looking forward to your video tutorial on the subject.
Cheers and thanks a lot for sharing all your tips and secrets!
Le Roux
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canon 24 mm tilte shift lens, how much distance from camra lens to object plz
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
December 8th, 2010 at 4:19 pm
Ambi,
canon 24mm TS lens is suppose to be used mounted on canon camera.. So the distance would be whatever canon have between lens’s bayonet mount and a censor.
With such tilt-shift adapter I built only non-35mm lenses suppose to be used. 35mm lenses have very small image circle, so there is not way you can tilt and shift them…
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Hi. I have a Canon 10D and 30D. I use a Sigma 50mm f2.8 macro lens and a Canon 100mm f2.8 macro as well for jewelry products. I get very good, crystal clear shots, but of course the focus plane, angles, lighting, shutter speed all factor in to capture the best image. This is one of the limitations of DSLR’s.
I am also looking into the Canon 45mm F2.8 tilt/shift lens, which would help turn the DSLR’s into a simliar, “view” type camera with tilts and swings. Sometimes, I have to take 2-3 shots of a product such as a ring, necklace, or braclet, using the focus stacking technique to get the entire image in 100% focus
If any jewelry photographers here are using the tilt/shift lenses for jewelry, does the $1000 price make it worth it?
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
December 8th, 2010 at 4:45 pm
Ambi,
I never had any canon TS lenses, but I think they can be used in jewelry photography with some limitations:
45mm TS and 90mm TS is not a macro lenses, magnification ratios are x0.16 (for 45mm) and x0.29 (90mm) . Meaning that you won’t be able to get as close as you want to shoot a ring or any other small object. ideally you have to have lens with 1:1 magnification ratio to shoot life-size macro.
However, with 1.6 crop factor and with Canon 12mm (or 25mm , can be used with 90mm TS only) Extension tube you can have close to life-size with these lenses..
BTW, 90mm TS seems to be a better choice for me, as it has better magnification and 90mm will give you more room between camera and the subject, which helps to deal with unwanted reflections from a camera.
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Hi, Nice job with the DIY set-up. And the sharpness of your images is impressive.
Wondering if you can answer a question for me. A little while back I bought an X2-pro, (bit of an impulse buy but it was a good deal so I went for it). I shoot with a Nikon D700.
When I bought the camera, I was under the impression that I could use all kinds of medium and large format lenses. However, according to Cambo the list of lenses that are compatible is quite small, and even smaller for Nikon than for Canon.
What I don’t understand is this: as far as I can see, the system is a lens, a sensor, and a light tight space between the two. With the right distance between the lens and the sensor, shouldn’t any lens work? Is it because Cambo doesn’t make compatible lens-boards? Could I figure out the distances for each lens and DIY my own lens-board?
Thanks,
Jim
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
December 18th, 2010 at 11:11 pm
Jim,
I think you are right: it dos not matter what lens, the only factor is an image circle (it should be enough to work with the systems like X2-pro) and a focal length (bellows min or max extension). Make a DIY lensboard to fit in X2, and use it with any medium or enlargement or large format lens.. I am far from expert in that area, but common sense should work here as usual:-)
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Great setup thanks for post. I am currently making one for Nikon d3x on Arca Swiss 6×9 view camera making it a compact unit. Due to small sensor size in camera camera the large format lenses have limiting use to longer focal lengths. Any suggestions for wide angle lens say 24mm equivalent if this is even possible on this setup?
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
January 2nd, 2011 at 2:24 am
Joel,
As I understand, in such view camera adapters we can only use lenses with a focal length greater then a distance from a camera sensor to a camera’s bayonet mount. If we count the camera grip (it can limit the minimal distance you can have front standard) and room needed for a tilt and shift, the only 40-50mm and longer lenses can be used safely. 35mm can possibly fit, but I seriously doubt you can tilt or sift it.
The solution can be sticking multiple photos made by moving rear standard with DLSR attached so it will cover area much larger then camera sensor: I remember seeing architecture images done this way, they looked amazing. Also, the guy was getting 50-60 megapixel resolution images by using 12Mpx DSLR that way.
BTW, you’ve got a great portfolio, love your interior/exterior photos. Good luck with your build, please post the result here!
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Thanks Alex I will post images as soon as all is done. Just found wide angle lens made from Schneider for this application however not cheap at over $4500. You can check them out at https://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogSubCategoryDisplay.aspx?CID=1325
Thanks Joel.
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
January 2nd, 2011 at 9:58 am
Joel,
Yes, Schineider makes good and expensive ones:-) You may want to take a look at the complete system, with pre-selected set of lenses. I am talking about Cambo X2-pro:
http://www.cambo.com/Html/products_photo/set01/english/internet/Group735.html
For example, wides lens you can use is Schineider WA-Digitar 2.8/28mm, which is pretty wide on such setup.. the lens cost $2700, you may able to fit it on Afrca Swiss…
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Hi Alex
I appreciate all you write here, but my question is about lens expierence. Above you wrote ab
…For now I am planning to buy and use Mamiya Macro C 80mm f4 N…
i have this lens and it is very very good on Canon 5d mark II body. You have now the Rodenstock apo 80, would you like to try the mamiya lens on Cambo Master PC? Last i bought Cambo Master PC too.
I noticed that you should inverse the sides of cambo. More comfortable is when Cambo is left and the Camera right, would you?
thanks Zbytek
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I know this is an post but I’m working on a similiar setup for studio macro work and could use your advise. I apologize in advance if some of these are stupid questions.
I currently have a Toyo 45G and there is an adapter fitting on ebay that can connect my 5DII to the back. The camera has geared movements but not for tilt and swing (grrr).
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260708903627&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Thoughts? I’m not much of a DIY kind of guy as I don’t have much in the way of tools.
The lens I’m considering is a Rodenstock 120mm f5.6 Apo Macro Digial Sironar. It’s a little pricey but I can afford it and as it seems like a good choice.
I’m working on getting a recessed lens board and bag bellows. I’m trying to research this and others that have done similiar setups can’t achieve infinite focus. Could this cause problems?
Thanks in advance!
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
April 14th, 2011 at 10:18 pm
Ruben,
I was looking for a toyo cameras when was shopping for mine. I think any camera will work, only the difference would be in usability.
My cambo is good, but now I am looking fro sinar P2/P3 or similar ones:-) More precise movements, lighter, etc.
Rodenstock 120mm f5.6 Apo Macro Digial Sironar is exactly what i would buy too. This is a great lens, it will work great when you’ll move to a medium format media.
Recessed board is needed for wide angle lenses, 35-70mm: to get infinite focus you’ll need to have focal length distance between camera sensor and the lens.. 50mm won’t be possible without recessed board, even 70mm might be a problem. 120 should be far enough to work with the regular bellows. Measure your camera, you’ll know a minimal distance.
Hope this will help, good luck!
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Ruben Reply:
April 25th, 2011 at 2:10 am
Thanks Alex.
I initially wanted a Sinar as well but quickly found out how pricey they were. Suprisingly I found a used Cambo Ultima on ebay but got outbid. I’m just too frustrated with my Toyo as the tilt and swing movements aren’t geared but I found a Cambo Master PC on ebay for not too bad a price. Guess I’ll be selling my Toyo now. I just won a recessed lens board (I don’t know how recessed though), and am looking to purchase a bag bellows. I have it pretty well planned out how I’m gonna set this up. I guess my only question now is how to remove the frame from the rear element and how to attach the bag bellows to an eos mount. I think the 5dII sensor is somewhere like 40 or 44mm from the mount? So that lens should work just fine. Thanks again!
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
April 25th, 2011 at 11:47 am
Ruben,
It is very easy to take off the frame from rear (same as front) standard of the cambo master PC camera. Just unscrew it from a frame connector. I can snap a picture for you showing how I did mine. You’ll see that I epoxy glued “L” shaped plate to a frame connector and have a manfrotto camera connector plate mounted on it.
BTW, i am thinking to switch to a acra-swiss type of connector, as there is a very cool accessory which let you to mount camera horizontally or vertically: so far i do not have this functionality (have only horizontal mount).
I’ll snap pictures and may be even a video, will update my post with it.
Good luck with your build!
I would appreciate that thanks! Theres a sliding element that allows me to raise the front and rear standards a further 40mm thats locked down with a screw knob. And there are a couple of philips screws fastening the frame to the standard. Those are the ones I’m to remove right?
I was thinking of putting a quick release lever clamp from really right stuff as thats what I currently use. I’d be real curious to see how you over come the portrait/landscape issue. The only thing I could think of is seperate plates for both. The bellows I would imagine would need to be removed, rotated and installed again as well wouldn’t it?
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Hey Alex!
What do you think about the Cambo X2 Pro camera? Is it useful?
I would like to use it my existing Canon and Phase one AFD with LEAF 75s digital back. Do you think it is a good idea?
I would like to use it for product and some architectural photography…What do you think?
I love your work!!!!
Otto
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
April 29th, 2011 at 5:15 pm
Otto,
Yes, X2 is really cool camera, but I did not want to spend such money to build system for DSLR – it is not serious anyway. The real thing is to use a MF digital back with sinar P3 or Cambo Ultima 23 or similar camera.. So, my Cambo master PC was to test the technique. However, i use it for some commercial shots with great success.
Will post some video about my setup soon.
Thank you!
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Hi Alex,
I am thinking of building one for myself. But I use a D300. Will there be any problems due to the body being a CROP SENSOR one. I amd guessing that the TILT-SHIFT effect will be lesser than what we get on Full Frame?? It would be really helpful if you could help me with this query. By the way, a fantastic mod, gr8 results and love your work. I follow each and ever upload and articles of yours.. Thanks for sharing all this.. :)
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
July 26th, 2011 at 10:52 am
Raj,
The biggest issue with such tilt-shift system and DSLR is the fact that the sensor is hidden inside of DSLR body, and body limits angles you can tilt /shift or swing the lens.. Body block the light if the angle is big enough.
Sensor size does not affect tilt and shift functionality.. smaller sensor with more pixel density requires better lens to get decent quality images..
thank you!
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Paul Grundy Reply:
August 6th, 2011 at 10:55 am
Hi Alex… what lens would you recommend for the smaller sensor, like the D300. Your site has been a great source of information and inspiration, and is a recent discovery for me. I wish I had found it earlier.
I have noticed that on a lot of enlarger lenses the aperture is illuminated, presumably from what would have been the enlarger lamp. Does this ‘aperture’ not transmit stray light back into the camera? Thanks for your time.
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
August 6th, 2011 at 11:26 am
Paul,
I am not sure I’ve understand your concern about aperture of enlargement lens: it does not matter is it enlarger or camera lens mounted on, aperture is simply limits the amount of light passes through the lens.
It works the same way in any application.
As to the lens, smaller sensor has higher pixel density and thus add more requirements for the lens resolution.
Therefore it is good if you use the sharper and apo ( color corrected lens).
I am not an expert in the enlargement lens world, can’t recommend you a particular one. The one I’ve used is a good one for sure.
Must also say that any enlargement lens will fail a competition with current line of digital lenses made for digital view cameras. Look at rodenstock digital and Schneider digitar lenses.
But it might be hard to use them with dslr.
I re-read my post and perhaps I have phrased the question badly. The’aperture’ I was referring to was the opening for the illuminated aperture dial, not the actual lens aperture. I have noted that a lot of enlarger lenses have this illuminated dial and I was concerned that light would transmit back through it when mounted on a camera. I hope that makes sense. Thanks for the great amount of work you put into this site.
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
August 6th, 2011 at 11:59 am
Oh, I see. I’ve misunderstood you.
That dial, it is outside of the lens, right? Asking because on rodenstock I had it was outside and I could not imagine how it may affect the picture. Even if it would be illuminated.
I think you should be fine…:-)
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and this was my home-made solution:
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1019013
(see the last picture)
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massimo testoni Reply:
August 8th, 2011 at 7:10 pm
Some time ago I pourchased an old Plaubel 100mm F2.9 lens, without shutter, for about 15 Euros (1931/32). Just for curiosity I put it on the system and I succeded to have the best red I never had before. The picture is not a fine art, but I think the red colour is really interesting.
and this is the lens
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
August 9th, 2011 at 1:32 pm
Massimo, very cool results!
Thank you for sharing this
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Thank you Alex. Maybe two words on bellows, if that could be helpful to someone. Bag bellows are usually expensive, so I decided to build one by myself. You can use leather, synthetic leather or neoprene. I sewed in reverse two square pieces together (sew first three sides, then the fourth one trough the front standart hole, after gluing the adapters. 42cm is what I did, but I think 35 is enough. The front adapter was cutted from a 2mm aluminium panel
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Alex Koloskov Reply:
August 10th, 2011 at 9:36 pm
I’ve got bellows for my setup for about $70.. But your solution is even better!
Thank you for sharing
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Alex, these are great information about not so well known field of photography. I am now in the very beginning of this process and trying to build up the best affordable setup for me. I am going to shoot mostly jewelry. Do you think Canon 5dmk2 and TS-E 90mm f2.8 a good combo for a start? Again, thank you so much for your time for the valuable info here.
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hi!!
Alex what a wonderful photographer you are. I have become a fan of your work. I was just hunting masters of product photography and reached at your flickr stream. You have an amazing stream indeed.
Alex I am in process of making a custom solution for this. I am making a complete aluminum casting solution as it will reduce lots of weight. In this process I found this wonderful solution from Novoflex.
http://www.novoflex.com/en/products/macro-accessories/bellows-systems/tilt-shift-bellows/
Please! Check you will like their idea. This is lightweight, smaller in size and above all its for DSLRs. You have to do little modifications to just attach your lens. I am sure you will like this. My solution is inspired from this but I am tying to make a small size large format solution. It will be identical to a large format camera but a smaller version. Its still on design stage and your suggestions will be most welcome.
I am finding a way to be linked to your website. So that I can see your work regularly. If you have any newsletter service than please add my email address.
Thanks
Emaad
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