Developing tilt/shift system for 35mm digital camera based on 4x5 large format view camera

Inspired by a tilt-shift adapters like Cambo X2 -PRO and Cambo Ultima 35 Kit with desire to have ability to use virtually any medium/large format lens  but not willing to spend almost $2000 for a ready to use system, I decided to build my own version of such device. At the end I was hoping to have much heavier (:-( but more adjustable camera system (:-) for much less money (:-). Keeping cost low helps me to be more competitive on the market.

So, I start looking for a non-expensive used large format 4×5 view camera with full geared movements ( Sinar went off from my list at this point, as it is usually too old or too expensive :-) ). Eventually I ended up by choosing between Horseman and Cambo , and Cambo won. I am not saying that a Horseman is not as good (it might be better, I never had one), but there was a good deal on a Cambo that time.

I’ve got Cambo Master PC 4×5 view camera in a great shape ($260 from eBay), few lens boards (including one recessed) , found an old tripod head and about 3-4 hours total to build this:

Tilt Shift  system  for 35mm digital camera for medum format lens mout

Tilt Shift system for 35mm digital camera for medum format lens mout

Tilt/Shift camera system for 35mm cameras with medium/large format lens mount

Tilt/Shift camera system for 35mm cameras with medium/large format lens mount

I have modified one frame, attaching the camera plate from a head the way shown on a photo (screw mount reinforced with epoxy glue). Now I can move camera any direction to cover larger sensor field of view, stitching images in one afterward. Let me explain: Any medium format lens has not less than 60×60 millimeters field of view (usually more), but 35mm full frame has only 35×24 millimeters. So, by moving 35mm camera from side to side while making photos on each position we can cover full 6×6 frame, if needed. The resolution will be enormous as well! Having camera mounted vertically, I would stick with side to side movements, which will be good for exterior/interior or landscape shoots, producing up to 44 Megapixel photos with up to 48×35 mm field of view with 2 exposures, and 74×35 (66 megapixel) for 3. I would think it will be more than enough for my applications. In most cases this will be too much, so I’ll be making just one photo accepting a crop factor. Here is how I’ve attached the lens, just as a  temporary solution:

Tilt/shift medium format mount  system based on large format 4x5 camera

Tilt/shit camera system for 35 mm digital camera, side view

Now,  the lens. I do not have experience with medium format equipment, so any advice would be appreciated. I need one macro lens for a studio product/food photography and one wide angle for a architecture. Any suggestions? For now I am planning to buy and use Mamiya Macro C 80mm f4 N lens for the product photography, have not found a wide angle (35mm Mamiya?) so far.

Tilt shift large format  based camera for 35mm camera, front view

Tilt Shift system for 35mm digital camera with medum format lens attached, front view

Bellows:

Took apart my old broken sigma 17-35mm lens (if I am not mistaken), and used a lens bayonet and corresponded part to fix bellows.

Canon lens mount attached on a cambo bellows

Canon lens mount attached on a cambo bellows

Canon lens mount attached on a cambo bellows

Canon lens mount attached on a cambo bellows

I’ve  got  old Bronica 150mm f3.5 lens to play with, did a several test shoots (will post them later) with it attached to a recessed Lens board.
The resolution was noticeably lower comparing to Canon 180mm f3.5 macro L lens, but considering 1.8 crop factor (35×24 v.s 60×40) it’s not bad at all. One thing I have noticed is a huge difference in the amount of light coming through Bronica lens. With the same lightning setup, same aperture number I would need to lower strobe output almost twice to match the exposure I had with 180mm Canon lens.

Here is the complete list of what I have used to build my camera:
1. Cambo master PC 4×5 view camera
2. Lens board for Cambo 4×5
3. Amvona ball head plate (can be used any other, just make sure it will fit)
4. Cambo bag Bellows.
5. Any canon EOS bayonet mount from lens, I was using my very old broken Sigma lens.

I plan to work on some improvements on this setup, will be posting updates soon. Stay tuned!

An update: I did not like the vertical camera mount, so I’ve changed it to be horizontal. Also, new Rodenstock is mounted:

View camera with Canon ESO attached, Rodenstock lens

View camera with Canon ESO attached, Rodenstock lens

Updates:

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21 comments to How to: Developing a tilt/shift system for 35mm digital camera based on 4×5 view camera

  • I guess I am lucky to have a Sinar system from the good old days :-) Has everything already with it to do the same exact setup and more with the Nikon system. I am loving it, using all different types of Nikon and View camera lenses. Thanks for showing the DIY build.

    Eugene

    [Reply]

  • David Simm

    Thankfully I still have a couple of monorails from days gone by, although theys days I don’t seem to get asked much for that sort of work. However should the need arrise I too could link up to my Nikon.

    [Reply]

  • I am going to use this setup for a studio (macro and not) photography, where I may need a shift a lens to rotate a focus pane. As I expected, choosing a lens for this setup was not an easy task. Thanks for John Jovic post, I know what type of lens I’ll need here. Will post first test shoots soon, I hope. Really busy these days.

    Alex Kolsokov

    [Reply]

  • rick

    So are you able to focus out to infinity with this? such a large distance betweeen lens and ccd plane I would think it would be tough.

    Rick

    [Reply]

  • Rick,
    It should be no problem to have infinite focus from 300mm to 50mm, as I can get as close as 50mm to a CCD by using a recessed lensboard, and I also has another bellows which can be extended to up to 300mm.
    However, I am not going to use such long lenses anyway. Crop factor (comparing to a large or meduim format) makes any lent quite “long” in this setup.
    Still waiting for my
    RODENSTOCK APO-RODAGON-N 80mm (Enlarging Lens) to come. This lens I’ll be using to a studio macro, as I’ve seen a great results with it on the same setup.
    Alex kolsokov

    [Reply]

  • Thanks for sharing this elegant inexpensive alternative to the super expensive Canon tilt/shift lens.

    [Reply]

  • I am builing a similiar camera. In your experience, do you prefer enlarging lenses or 4 x 5 lenses?

    [Reply]

    admin Reply:

    Bill,
    I did not had much experience with Medium format lens on my system, one I’ve tried was not doing really well. Enlarging lens was much better! But you need to get a good one, made for a color (Like APO lenses).
    However, may be you find a good medium format work for you, something like Mamiya 80mm Macro.
    Good luck with your project!
    Alex

    [Reply]

  • I am wondering wether it is possible to build a system with my hasselblad system, my 5d-mark2 and a cambo master and shoot at 1/500 with a profoto acute2?
    It would be great!
    Thanks for the info!

    C

    [Reply]

    admin Reply:

    Christian, unfortunately, not. You will be able to shoot only with 1/600 with your setup!

    BTW, links on comments is non-follow (for Google and other SE), so better to leave more intelligent comments to be followed by readers.

    [Reply]

  • Pardon my ignorance, but where did you get the bellows with correct fitting both for your camera at one end and the ? Square large format at the other? thanks for the great idea…

    [Reply]

    admin Reply:

    I’ve used standard bag bellows from cambo, and made one end to connect to a canon’s lens speeding.
    There is a topic I’ve opened will help you, I have images of the modified bellows there:
    topic

    [Reply]

  • Nice job. I’m looking for a similar setup (looking at the Cambo X2-PRO option).

    By the way, Mamiya’s 140 mm macro is an excellent and versatile lens. I highly recommend it.

    [Reply]

    Alex Koloskov Reply:

    Thank you, Oliver.
    Cambo X2 Pro is a great adapter, if you plan to work with 35mm DSLR. For me it was not an option, as I am going to move to a medium format DSLR soon, and will be using tilt-shift adapter designed for such cameras.
    Good to know about Mamiya 140mm lens, thanks!

    [Reply]

  • Nice job Alex!
    You discovered my trick of 20 years ago!
    Only back then I used a Nikon FM rear mounted to a Sinar P2 4X5 and interestingly, I used an Apo Rodagon ENLARGING lens mounted backwards in the front lens plate. Same results of course but even sharper than APO large format primes.
    Film did not result in increased chromatic aberration as you get with digital sensors.
    I miss my Sinar :(
    Keep up the good work!
    Mahmoud

    [Reply]

    Alex Koloskov Reply:

    Mahmoud,
    Thank you for the advice, will try to mount it backwards. Did not think about doing this.
    That GearNinjia, is it all your work? You must have some good piece of experience, 20 years ago I was a kid:-)

    [Reply]

  • Oops! I see an enlarging lens in the past frame. Now mount it backwards!

    [Reply]

  • How to: Developing a tilt/shift system for 35mm digital camera based on 4×5 view camera – http://awe.sm/56aX3

  • Hi, I love your site I was looking for more info about jewelry photography, usually shank is always out of focus, a big problem.

    Check my site if you need some jewelry retouching

    Jackson

    [Reply]

  • Michael

    Hi Alex,

    This is quite brilliant and very well done. Before I purchase the parts and attempt this myself I just want to clear up 1 question that I have. With this set up can the DSLR function much like a larger view camera in the field for capturing architecture with all around tight focus or will it function more like a very large lensbaby and leave me with just selective focus even when stopped down to f/11 or so?

    Michael

    [Reply]

    Alex Koloskov Reply:

    Michael,
    My setup, like any other tilt-shift adapter, does not increase DOF. Instead, you can shift it to correct perspective distortion, or tilt to make focus plane tilted the way you want. Tilted to an extreme angle it will give you that selective focus you’ve mentioned.
    Also, when you use enlargement lens, (or any other which has huge image circle) you can move camera on the rails to make several images to be stitched later. The resulted image will have almost distortion (large-format like) perspective, plus, a huge 6-+ Mpx resolution.

    However, the whole thing is very heavy and not easy to use outside studio. I’ve never used it for architecture so far, the main purpose of it in a studio, for jewelry and other tricky objects:-)

    Thanks for stopping by, wish you good luck in your projects!
    ~Alex

    [Reply]

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